A/C Compressor CLutch Replacement
on the 1999 E300DT (W210 / OM606)
by deltajetfixer
9/8/06
Thanks to all who contributed.
Due to time constraints and lack of a third vehicle I wasn't able to take any pictures. The procedure however, is pretty straightforward:
To replace the clutch:
1) VERIFY that your compressor isn't "shelled out".
2) Remove the belt from the compressor pulley and see if it rotates by hand. It should do so quite easily. My pulley had an extraordinary amount of play in it due to a failed bearing.
3) Check the Actual Values display on the A/C control Panel or hook up some gauges to verify that there is an appropriate amount of freon in the system.
4) Perform continuity check on the electromagnetic coil. Mine was OPEN.Also check that you can get power TO the coil from the associated wire.
5) Remove fan shroud, engine driven fan, serpentine belt, and sheetmetal crossmember in front of radiator.
6) Remove auxiliary fans and horn.
7) Remove front lower splash shield.
8) REMOVE RADIATOR! I tried doing this without doing so and it just didn't work. I left the hoses connected to the radiator. You're going to have to break the two ATF lines loose as well as lift the condenser UP on the left and right sides as it sits in two "L' brackets on either side of the radiator. You'll also need to remove two 10mm bolts at the bottom front of the intercooler attaching to the bottom front of the radiator.
9) Use a strap wrench to hold front of compressor and remove 10mm bolt holding front hub on. It'll come off quite easily. BE SURE to put one hand underneath to catch shims.IF you lose one, don't panic as 6mm washers work quite nicely plus you get three spare of varying thicknesses in the replacement clutch kit.
10) Use a GOOD pair of external snapring pliers to remove first snapring then remove pulley. You get new snaprings in the kit so feel free to destroy the old. A good mirror is a necessity here and in the next step.
11) This next snapring is a #&%#^! It's nestled about ONE INCH inside the coil cavity. This is why the radiator had to come out as you're going to approach it head on with straight tip external pliers. I had to cut the handles down on mine. Cut down ONLY as much as you barely need as your leverage will suffer. Maybe someone has some really long 90 degree tips but I couldn't find any.
12) Remove screws holding coil ground and power wires and remove coil. My coil was BAKED!
13) Reverse steps to reinstall.
14) When you get to setting the airgap (instructions in kit specify 0.45mm, +0.15mm or -0.10mm) be sure you check it AGAIN after reinstalling the serpentine belt. The preload affects the clearance. I set mine at 0.51mm. Also be sure your feeler gauge is between the friction material on the pulley and the clutch hub. The first time I did this, I set it too close (didn't take into account the friction material, I just measured at the edge) and burned the friction material off the pulley. This caused me to have to buy a new clutch and just replace the pulley and hub. I managed this without having to remove the radiator again.
The clutch is available from Phil for $148. He got me mine (the second one) in two days.The Stealer wanted $750...just for the clutch!!! God knows how much they would've charged to do it! This is the first time I've ever done a compressor clutch. Hopefully it'll last me another 7 years.
Total ATF lost was about one pint. I elected not to replace the waterpump and thermostat as preventive maintenance. Only thing left to do is clear the DTC's from the A/C panel.
Discussion of this DIY can be found here.
-deltajetfixer
CategoryDiy
